So you’d like to design your own woven fabric?
But you’re not sure how……
Designing your own woven fabrics FAQ
- Why would you want to design your own fabrics?
- What’s the minimum order quantity?
- Is it going to cost a fortune?
- How long does it take?
- How on earth do I do this – I haven’t a clue!
Why would you design your own fabric?
- The look, drape and feel of a garment is massively influenced by the fabric you select.
- By working with John England to design your own fabric you are designing from the yarn upwards.
- It’s the best way for you to create that truly unique style and design of garment, and stand out from the crowd.
“If you want to stand out from the crowd, give people a reason
not to forget you” – Richard Branson
We’ve never designed woven fabric before – will you help us?
Of course! We will guide you through the whole process, so that you get the look you want, AND you’ll have fun along the way!
Designing for weave is a different process to designing for print, but the resulting cloth has a higher perceived value and quality.
What’s the minimum order quantity?
The minimum order quantity is 12 metres sample length – yes that’s right just 12 metres.
We always weave a sample of the repeat for approval, this costs £20* or £1* per centimetre,
This means you can develop, show and sell your range Before you order the run on of fabric – only ordering the exact amount you need.
To ensure that the fabric design is sold to no one else you must order a further 38 metres.
However, if for some reason you are not able to order the 38m run on within three months, we may sell it to another customer to cover our design and set up costs.
So …..is it going to cost a fortune?
Don’t be daft!
There are price breaks as the amount you order increases, so the price drops.
Are you going to have to start printing money to pay for it?
Definitely not! Prices vary depending on which yarn you pick and how densely your fabric is woven.
For example a linen warp yarn with a lambs wool weft would cost around the £27 mark, whereas a recycled cotton weft with a linen warp could be under the £20 mark, but we will work with you to keep the cost within your budget.
So how do we get started?
- What is the end use for the fabric.
- Decide the fibers you would like (seasonal).
- Indicate what your colour palette is.
- Find a visual of your inspiration.
- We have created over 3000 fabrics which you can use to form your own palette and fuel your creativity
- Select your swatches and
form your own palette – Irish Linen.
The fibres you select are usually determined by the end use of the fabric
- Currently we weave linen warps with the following weft
- Lambs wool
- Cotton & Recycled cotton
- Alpaca / Cashmere
Yarn Development –
“what we are aspiring to initially”
Delicate, translucent, soft and fine with a high shine. A plain weave fabric with applique dots adding a touch of finesse. Pineapple fibres are pale ivory in colour and naturally glossy.
The banana fibres are extracted from the STEM of a banana tree. This great quality yarn is delicate and soft and at the same time, can be dyed into different colours. It has high moisture absorbability and is thus perfect for the summer.
The nettle plant produces fibres similar to flax. Nettle textile has been around since the late Bronze age but it fell out of favour when cotton arrived in the 16th century. It was used in military Uniforms in WW2 when cotton was in short supply. Nettle is an eco-friendly fibre.
As we develop more & more fabric for film, TV and stage each year , we are in the fortunate position of being able to allow our imaginations to run wild, which once we leave university this is a luxury 95% of us have to leave behind.
We are for example able to constantly experiment with weave structure. This gives us a wealth of not just experience and expertise to draw on but a whole universe of unique innovation.
‘We sew too , so we appreciate that drape is what can make an average garment look truly superb.
We carry a large range of yarn colours. Here are a few points that will help you;
- Colour theory that you may have learnt, doesn’t really apply to woven colours
- If you want a particular pantone reference, to dye sample cone of yarn to your specification will cost approx.£80 per colour
- The best option is always to go for the nearest colour and we will combine yarns where we can
- Please DO NOT request a yarn chart, but just the colours and types of yarn you are interested in.
Bespoke: Piece dyed – Want to have your own colour?
- We can weave the griege / grey / loomstate Base fabric if you wish to dye yourself. If you would like us to dye for you.
- Minimum order quantity 80 metres.
- The cost p/m is the same as the minimum order quantity cost There are price breaks as the quantity increases.
- Time scale is usually around 8 weeks from sign off of lab dips.
- Customers may be asked for a 50% deposit, new customers may be asked for payment via Proforma.
Case study 1
• Inspired by nature
• Fir cones
• Repeat pattern supplied
The original brief was for a two colour pattern using a lambs wool weft.
Samples in two scales. Here you can see front and reverse sides, which
as it is jacquard woven means it’s two fabrics in one!
Working into the design
- Have you got the right
- Does it sit comfortably with the rest of your range?
Then we do our stuff, no need to worry about this bit
Then you get to see your samples and discuss any finishing.
- 2 scales
- 2 x100% linen
- 2 x linen cotton union
Case study 2 – Designers Instructions
This is a very complicate hand made structure that can not be reproduced on a commercial scale BUT……
All is not lost ….
Looks complicated? – Divide and Conquer
Developing the 2 layer structure; Adjusting the leno (net) ; Making it look hand stitched
Case study 3
Take one of our designs and adjust it until its perfect for your look
Have a look at Fabric Manufacturing Plant inside:
Jude Neilly – Product Development & Design
Terri McStraw – Key Accounts
(UK0044) 028 4062 0400